Straight shoulder rules, systems and methods of the present day by Doolittle Oliver Taylor

Author:Doolittle, Oliver Taylor. [from old catalog]
Language: eng
Format: epub, pdf
Tags: Tailoring
Publisher: Philadelphia, O. T. Doolittle
Published: 1901-03-25T05:00:00+00:00

as well as on another, and lor this reason it is as well, when so situated, it one can, as much as possible, place work in the hands of tliose who \vori< separately the best.

I he widtli ot back as across Ironi back notch for sleeve has much to do in a _L,rood ^^ar-ment ; it allows front of arm scytt to remain in plac(; with ease (the point CO as wc;ll) and you can produce- a better and more efiective blade with it, while a narrow one will not allow any sleeve to hany well or any Ireedom of arm movement. This may be the case where a draft for a sleeve to arm scye would be effective by placini,; in it that part of the back taken from it ; a too witle back is of small expense to bushel ; a too narrow one is of lar^e expense ; in many cases, too, even with a new back and outlets, the effect cannot b(! correctcxl without a new collar, and a chanL;*- at C"0 as a result. A small arm s()c and wide back will make the most comfortable as well a better effect in a garment.

In making- any changes lor correction in a garment it is always best to observe first as to their inlluence and elfect at other than their individual points, as often there arc; different corrections and that will benefit better the correction, ami, as well, be less liable to displace others, a.s in correction of a side seam of blade In a body frock loi loo much hillness, it may \)r_ caused by front shoulder point CO, as too short of stra]), liy loo long depth of scye, by the too tight or too short collar, as all or any one of the above would hav<; an inlluence at full length of waist at CO to cause it, and the study of each and every one should be to thoroughly investigate and Imd out the most prominent one and remedy that; but lii-st of all try by pinching-up of the uniler arm Ion-part and side body seam at c(-nl(-r line .S, to see if that will not make the correction without tlisturbing any of the other points, and if so, it will be much better than to take from side body at blade the amount as making too narrow for a well-definc^d artistic line. Often a little clearing of front scye at line W will let it go to place.

As the mechanism has largely to do with good results, tlu nearer points as connecting are dralted to place, and shaping to shape, it would be reasonal>le to expect the better results from it. The uncertainty of stretching and shrinking often misplaces its(-lf, and if not held to the purpose for which it was intended, the rc^sult would be better without it. As the stretching of front scye at point of front shoulder bone for ease, letting the amount of it fall over

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